Just Don’t Wash: Raw Denim American Jeans

Are you seriously telling me not to wash a pair of raw denim American jeans for 6 to 12 months? Yes . . . Yes, I am!

This is actual advice from the American manufacturers of raw denim jeans. Not washing in the first six months prevents shrinkage and fading while allowing indigo dyes to fade, crease, or “whisker” to your body shape and usage—creating a unique-to-you fade map over time. For visuals, see Jean Shop’s Vintage Wall of Fame.

Raw Denim American Jeans – Jean Shop Wall of Fame

Raw vs. Selvedge Denim?

First, definitions . . . Per Jean Shop, raw denim is “not washed or processed in any way after it is manufactured” (see Jean Shop’s FAQ) whereas selvedge denim (also spelled “selvage”) is a “fabric that is made using one continuous cross-yarn that is passed back and forth thru the vertical warp beams.” Thus, not all raw denim is selvedge denim, but all raw denim deserves to be treated with respect when it comes to the wash cycle.

Why should you care about selvedge denim? According to Todd Shelton, selvedge (which originated from “self-edge”) is a higher quality, denser fabric than non-selvedge. And, “since it will not unravel, the edge of the fabric is used as the garment’s outseam.”

How to Care for your Raw Denim American Jeans

According to Gustin—provider of American-made, crowd-sourced  Gustin Selvedge Denim: “Waiting at least six months before the first wash will not only cause the denim to form to your body, it will help achieve high-contrast fades” (see Gustin’s Care Guide). Also, given an expected half an inch shrinkage of the inseam, Gustin recommends not getting jeans hemmed until after the first wash and having a tailor with a chain stitch machine do the hem.

If you’re a raw denim purist, head over to Brave Star Selvage, who takes (not) washing  very, very seriously. Brave Star Selvage reiterates that shrinkage is the enemy on its Washing Your Raw Selvedge Denim for the First Time page. “If you soak or wash your jeans before you have worn them for any extended period of time including the initial try on then you risk shrinking them a full size (or more)…” Ouch! I’d hate to pay $100+ for a pair of American jeans and then have to give them to my shorter, skinnier buddy after the first wash.

Moving into the bespoke realm, Blue Delta Jeans—located in the quaint college town of Oxford, Mississippi—recommends you treat your custom jeans like the unique works of art they are. Thus the recommendation on Blue Delta’s FAQ page: “Blue Delta Jeans are dry clean only!”

Blue Delta Jeans (dry clean only!)

No Dryer, No-How!

I don’t need to tell you that the dryer is a big no-no, do I? Washing in a bathtub of lukewarm water with a drop of Woolite Darks (Made in USA, by the way) may be permitted, but dryers will shrink your gorgeous raw denim faster than a Shrinky Dink. Lay your hand-washed jeans out in a well-ventilated area, and be patient while they dry!

Where Can I Buy American-Made Raw Denim Jeans?

Check out the five American-made jeans manufacturers above! Then, head over to my Made in USA List under Clothing > Jeans for a list of over 25 American jeans manufacturers, not all of which are known for raw denim. There are many choices depending on your preference for jeans, so take your time browsing the sites!

For a detailed overview of raw and selvedge denim, read this article from The Art of Manliness—Your Grandpa’s Jeans: A Primer on Raw and Selvedge Denim.